Wednesday, July 04, 2007

Selipar Jepun Semakin Hangat



Setelah sebulan lebih berlatihan di Black Box Cultural Centre University of Malaya, kita akhirnya mendekati ruang kita di Dewan Bahasa, Stor Teater. Malam semalam kita dihadiri korum penuh kita - Ijat, Lenny, guest artist kita - Foo Chi Wei, serta empat pelakon tubuh yang membentuk ensembel gerak dan suara - Intan, Alif, Amat dan Fina.

Kakiseni.com pun sudah menyenaraikan Selipar Jepun di dalam senarai teater. www.kakiseni.com

Thursday, June 14, 2007

Tari Peragaan Busana Telepuk

Pengantin Selangor berdagang luar kain telepuk Singapura, lelakinya berbaju sikap telepuk diapit oleh wanita berkurung berdagang luar kain telepuk Siam. Tukang sambutnya pula bersimpuh di lantai berbaju Perak bersampin kain telepuk dari Kemboja dan berselimpang kain limar Kemboja.
Di antara para hadirin yang datang menepung tawar pengantin adalah pasangan yang mengenakan baju kebaya lama telepuk pengantin Palembang yang sudah lebih seratus tahun usianya, yang lelakinya pula meletakkan baju sikap Pelambang di bahunya.

Friday, June 01, 2007

Tari Peragaan Busana Telepuk Di Muzium Alam Shah

Aku Binatang Jalang (Emas Sepuluh)

Selasa ni kita akan mempersembahkan sebuah Raga-Tari Busana Telepuk di Muzium Alam Shah, jam 11 pagi, selama 30 minit. Karya ini adalah sebuah karya yang menggabungkan peragaan busana antik dan kontemporari koleksi svarnabhumi studio dan arena andaman, dengan teater tari Melayu Nusantara serta Asia Tenggara mengikut kesesuaian koleksi busana. Begitu juga dengan bentuk tari yang akan ditampilkan, menggabungkan koreografi kontemporari yang mengambil elemen tari Melayu dan Nusantara klasik serta teknik peragaan. Gambar-gambar yang ditampilkan di sini hanyalah sebagai hiasan semata-mata yang diambil dari produksi yang lalu - Emas Sepuluh di Istana Budaya serta Vous Amez Dormir yang dipentaskan di Bangkok Fringe Festival 2004. Kalau nak tahu itulah satu pose tari Bali saya yang digunakan untuk promo Emas Sepuluh. Baju kebaya sebelah ini pula adalah koleksi baju telepuk yang dipamerkan di Muzium Alam Shah. Walaubagaimanapun, busana yang akan ditari dan peragakan nanti adalah berbeza sekali, kerana ianya lebih bernafaskan rekaan nusantara dan Asia Tenggara. Para penari yang akan memperagatarikan busana tersebut adalah terdiri daripada para artis budaya pejabat kebudayaan Negeri Selangor dan dibantu oleh para staff Muzium Alam Shah. Saya sendiri akan membuat penampilan khas dengan menarikan sebuah tarian Bali dengan pemakaian kain telepuk/ prade Bali. Busana yang akan ditampilkan adalah busana pengantin Selangor yang direka khas, pasangan pengapit, 2 pasangan tetamu yang mengenakan pakaian Bugis, Siam dan Palembang, dua penari perempuan yang mengenakan busana Kelantan-Pattani dan Puteri Perak. kalau nak tengok datanglah ke Shah Alam. Selesai persembahan kita juga akan ada forum telepuk serta bengkel membuat telepuk keesokan harinya.

Vous Amez Dormir, Bangkok 2004.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

SELIPAR JEPUN - Akan Datang



Selipar Jepun akan dipentaskan di Stor Teater Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka pada 20, 21 dan 22 Julai, 2007. 20 Julai(Jam 8.30 Mlm), 21 Julai (Jam 2.30 Ptg dan 8.30 Mlm) dan 22 Julai (Jam 2.30 Ptg dan 8.30 Mlm). Selipar Jepun adalah sebuah teater

yang ditulis dan diarah oleh Dr.Zulkifli Mohamad (Tanah Serendah Sekebun Bunga, Aku Binatang Jalang, Lalak & Suara Dari Ruang Tamu)dan dibantu oleh Rosnani Seman(Ghazal Party Queen) sebagai Penolong Pengarah. Selipar Jepun menceritakan kisah hidup seorang peraih, Che Kenanga dan Yee Aji Whe, seorang Mak Andam dari Kelantan yang bertemu dalam perjalanan dari Kota Bharu ke Singapura dalam tahun 1970. Selipar Jepun juga menyelitkan kisah keperitan hidup dalam tragedi keretapi maut sewaktu perang Jepun. Teater ini menggabungkan elemen mono drama dan muzikal, yang menyaksikan gubahan semula lagu-lagu popular waktu itu dalam irama dikir barat. Saksikanlah keunikannya.

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Arts Happenings in KL

Hello friends, this past few weeks have been so busy with so many arts exhibitions and performances:
1. That Was The Year at KLPAC
2. Tanda at ASWARA Black Box
3. Isabel at Kebun Mimpi Bangsar
4. Cuban Artists at Menara Maybank

and I am sure I missed many shows too, including Superstar at Rimbun Dahan, Matahati Charity at SokaGakai Bukit Bintang. But I think both are still going on including the theatre performance URMI at Lambang Sari Istana Budaya. I also missed Tango at Malaysian Philharmonic Hall last week, sold out ticket.

Last week I wrote about Tokitsumugi at PETRONAS Gallery and this week will be on Ronggeng Merdeka in Penang, very interesting project indeed, don't forget Kosmo this Saturday!

Tuesday, May 01, 2007

Happy May 1 and Back From Penang

Penang trip was great! workshop with Aida Redza (http://aidaredza.blogspot.com), conversation with Kipli (http://kipllirahman.blogspot.com), watching 8tv crew (www.8tv.com.my) - Idora and the gang worked plus series of makan places, including the one infront of Tropical Spice Garden in Ferringgi (www.tropicalspicegarden.com), very friendly mak cik selling air kelapa with goreng pisang.

Living - Travel - Performance: rehearsal

Living - Travel - Performance: rehearsal

Saturday, April 21, 2007

Living in KL

Hello, so many exhibitions and performances to attend this few weeks. This what makes living in KL exciting. Apart from the innaugral performance of UMa Dance and Kesuma Dance at MTC Jl.Ampang, we also had RAM, a musical theatre written by Hatta Azad Khan. Must be inspired from watching so many PRamlee movies, discussion about P.Ramlee every year (wait til May comes, there will be lots of P.Ramlee discussion) plus series of P.Ramlee karaoke sessions. I remember in UNIMAS in Sarawak circa 1994-1998, when the university was granted with a research grant by PETRONAS, we had all sorts of PRamlee fair, including P.Ramlee Singing Competition and I was one of the candidate, just for fun of it, and probably manage to get the third place or something as I forgot the lyric. Fair enough RAM at Lambang Sari Istana Budaya was also about P.Ramlee singing competition, what a coincidence!!!

Oh during the trip to Jakarta, I was told by my Jakarta friend that he was so impressed with the new History Museum of Singapore, or now National Museum of Singapore and they too been screening P.Ramlee movies and having discussions on the life and arts or P.Ramlee. In fact sometime last year, I also discussed about listing P.Ramlee as Intangible Heritage of Malaysia, before Singapore claims him. But then we can't refuse the fact that the glory days of Malay films was in Singapore during 1950s and 1960s. In fact it all started in Singapore in 1930s. What to do, we have been struggling with the development of malay films since they move to Kuala Lumpur and people say the same thing about FINAS and Filem Negara. Anyway, back to the musical, I tot we were going to have real P.Ramlee musical by Adlin Ramlin and Roslan Aziz. During that time I stumbled to Abang Nasir P.Ramlee at the warong behind Istana Budaya, known as Mak Cik Tengah when I asked him about the P.Ramlee musical and he said "Saya dengar saja, tapi tak ada sorang pun yang approach saya. Kadang-kadang kecik hati juga". And I supposed he just wait and watch. Wonder what he thinks about RAM. I just knew that one of the students in her final acting class cried after the staging as she only has one line in the production, even though she is to be examined by board of examiners. I supposed the staging should not be staged for public if it is for the examination, but people has done worse!

On a positive side, there was a very interesting exhibition by a Japanese artist at the PETRONAS gallery, twin towers KL entitled "Tokitsumugi", An exhibition of kinetic sculptures by Masato Tanaka. As a performer, I see his work of art, series of moving sculptures served more than just sculptures, but series of performances. Fair enough, he mentioned later during sushi and green tea that he has worked with Arif Waran (Malaysian artist living in Hamburg) and Mugiono(Indo artist living in Solo) for exhibition-performance at Esplanade Singapore. I was told by few people to bring my performance students, not knowing that I don't teach performance, only performance management. But frankly, anyone who is interested in performance and visual arts should visit this sophisticated looking machines dancing around with at least 12 movements by each work of art, supported with lighting and shadow projected to the walls. I could sit there for hours, what more with green tea after green tea.

Sadly the rain was so bad on Friday that I missed the performance of Mek Mulong at MPO by PETRONAS PAG. I was told that tickets were sold out, good to hear that. Another show that is going on is Monolog Sang Serigala at Stor Teater DBP (Kudin as the actor) and Tanda (series of new work supervised by Namron) at ASWARA( always confused with ISWARA and ASWARA Rai, ah yes, she is married to Amitabh Bachan's son last week). Yes, some of us love Hindi movies too. I can't remember the last movie I watch though...Devdas? Water?. Opps sorry, I will try to go to ASWARA looking for Tanda, so, till next time!

Friday, April 06, 2007

Busy but Happy

Hello Salam Sejahtera
Wow, it's coming to two months since I wrote something here. So many things happened since then. My asia dance conference in Tokyo(talking about Islam and performance as well as workshop on Asyik dance), forum on dance and arts activism in UCLA as well as silat workshops with UCLA martial arts students, curating a visual arts exhibition BUMI ANGIN for Sultan of kelantan's birthday on May 24, mother's 100 days tahlil, opening performance for Pak Samad Ismail's exhibition on June 12, performance(fashion+dance+poetry) for Susuk Telepuk exhibition at Muzium Sultan Alam Shah on May 10. Not to mention my new work at UM's Cultural Centre, we are creating graduate programme in Creative Management!

But kosmo writing has not been neglected too, last week I was talking about Latiff Mohidin's exhibition at Petronas Gallery ended mid of March. This week alone, we have so many performances - UM Teater's Miss Julia at Panggung Wilayah, Jl.Panggung, KESUMA and UMa dance - tradisional and komtemporari at MTC Jl.Ampang, Mak Yong Raja Pechil at UM's Black Box and Swee Keong's Curse of the Empress at Central Market, which I think many people should watch!!!! So watch out for this space, surely something is cooking!!!!

Friday, February 16, 2007

My Best Friend's Wedding in Jakarta

Thank god I survived Big Flood in Jakarta. My Best Friend's (Jaime and Imelda) wedding went very well at Melia Hotel, official ceremony at 4 and dinner receiption at 7. We danced Flamenco till 2AM. The following nite, Jaime and Imelda gave us special dinner, for those who came from abroad, me, Jaime's mother and his nephew and old friend from New York. Helly Minarti from Jakarta, my pair at the wedding, the Gang, also present! Another round of Menado food, yummy!

Another adventure in Jakarta was attending the rehearsal of Calonarang dance drama by Bulan Djelantik and Retno Maruti, to be presented at Esplanade in Singapore. Unfortunately, I have to miss the show in Singapore. I wrote a story on it in Kosmo 3 February. Pictures and article later.

Wednesday, January 24, 2007

Apa ada kat Istana Budaya tahun ini?

Saya baru saja melihat program-program yang bakal ada di Istana Budaya (National Theatre) pada tahun ini. Daripada 5 rogram yang ada sampai bulan April, ternyata ada 4 buah konsert akan ditampilkan, patriotik, simfoni tani? PRamlee & Saloma serta Ahmad Jais. Agaknya apa pula program yang ada di Lambang Sari, panggung kecil di Istana Budaya? Kalau sebelum ini kita ada banyak program muzikal yang ternyata bukan mudah untuk dipentaskan, kerana mengambil masa yang lama. Saya dengar, ada pihak yang akan mementaskan muzikal Story of Saadong, tapi masih rahsia katanya. Di mana agaknya mereka akan pentaskan ya? Siapa pengarah dan siapa komposer tu? Hafiz Askiak? Pak Ngah? Roslan Imam? Apapun rasanya ianya menarik kerana akan dapat memberikan intepretasi baru dalam muzikal dan penceritaan, apa lagi ianya akan menampilkan idea kreatif dan alternatif. Siapa agaknya yang akan menjadi Saadong? Misha Omar? Masha? Zehra Zamri?

Tentu juga Istana harus menampilkan program lokal dan antarabangsa, muzikal, monolog, drama realism, komedi, simfoni, konsert, tari tradisional dan tari keontemporari. Mungkin ini akan memuaskan hati penonton? apalagi ianya bukan program percuma. Kata orang "Customer is King" dan "Customer is Always Right". Bila agaknya kita dapat menyaksikan ini berlaku di Malaysia?

Dalam rangka ke Jakarta saya bakal menonton muzikal Nano Riantarno "Kunjungan Cinta" serta dramatari gabungan dua koreografer klasik Jawa-Bali, Retno Maruti dan Bulan Djelantik. mereka juga akan datang ke Esplanade March ini. Jom kita Air Asia ke Jakarta!!!!!

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Tradition Based Contemporary Dance and Theatre

It was at SEAMEO-SPAFA's SEA Theatre Conference in Bangkok in 2003 that I coined the term Tradition Based Contemporary Dance and Theatre. Mathew Cohen captured the term in his report for IIAS Newletter/33 and later he created a panel on the same title at the ASEASUK's Conference in Exeter in May 2005. (Please refer to the article written by Mathew Cohen in IIAS in the link)

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Koreografer Jerman Di Malaysia

Cetus Minda Tari
Dr.Zulkifli Mohamad
Beberapa bulan lalu saya dikhabarkan oleh Goethe Institute yang Antje Pfundtner, koreografer Jerman yang sedang naik nama, akan datang berworkshop di Kuala Lumpur, di Istana Budaya di bawah pengawasan Kementerian Kebudayaan Kesenian dan Kebudayaan. Sayang sekali kalau peluang sebegini rupa tidak dimanafaatkan oleh kita semua di Kuala Lumpur dan di Malaysia, maklumlah jarang sekali kita menerima kunjungan yang sebegini rupa, apa lagi ada yang ingin memberikan ilmunya secara percuma.
Sayang juga kerana peluang ini hanya terbuka kepada Istana Budaya. Tapi mungkin juga ada baiknya, kerana ia dapat membuka minda para koreografer dan penari-penari Istana Budaya. Kalau dulu mereka ini di panggil Kompleks Budaya Negara, kini mereka hanya digelar Artistana, berkhidmat di Istana Budaya, mengisi ruang kosong yang ada dalam drama-drama, muzikal atau program muzik dan tari ethnik di situ. Kompleks Budaya Negara sudah lama ujud, sejak awal 1970an lagi, tapi malangnya hingga kita mereka masih belum ada organisasinya sendiri seperti jiran tetangga kita di Asia Tenggara, Singapore Dance Theatre, Philippines Ballet atau Cambodia Royal Ballet. Seharusnya setelah sekian lama, mereka sudah ada pengurus, direktor artistik serta para koreografer, penari danm programnya sendiri!
Mungkin inilah mulanya. Antje, 30 tahun, yang selesai kuliah tarinya di Essen-Werden pada tahun 1995 dan menyambung studi tarinya di Amsterdamse Hogeschool voor de Kunsten, Holland, serta menerima pelbagai biasiswa dan berhijrah ke New York untuk mencari pengalaman tarinya, berada di Kuala Lumpur selama lebih kurang tiga minggu. Selalunya, dalam tempoh yang sebegitu sudah mulai ada pertumbuhan untuk sesebuah produksi, dalam situasi sebegini, mungkin sudah lahir suatu kolaborasi antara koreografer kita dengan beliau.
Sebenarnya, ini bukanlah kali pertama beliau mengadakan workshop tari di luar Jerman, pada tahun 2005, beliau mula berworkshop di Living Dance Studio di Beijing, China dan Critical Path, Sydney. Di Beijing juga beliau berkolaborasi dengan Wen Hui, koreografer dan pemilik Living Dance Studio, sebuah studio seni moden persendirian yang sering kali menampilkan idea-idea yang menentang pemerintahan komunisma. Critikal Path, walaupun dibiayai oleh Majlis Seni Australia, adalah sebuah organsisasi seni bebas yang tulus ingin menyemarakkan seni kontemporari di Australia, khususnya tari. Critical Path berkerjasama dengan Sydney Opera Studio. Kehadiran Antje di situ memberi peluang kepada koreografer itu untuk bertukar fikiran dengan koreografer lain di Sydney, Australia, seterusnya membuahkan karya-karya kolaborasi di Dance Studio,Sydney Opera House. Pada tahun depan belai akan kembali ke Sydney dan Melbourne untuk berworkshop dan berkolaborasi.
Di Malaysia, beliau berkerjasama dengan Goethe Institute dan Istana Budaya, sebuah pentas persembahan yang sekali gus produser dan pemilik kumpulan artis Artistana. Mungkin ini boleh menjadikan sebuah laluan yang mudah menghasilkan sebuah poduksi tari untuk dipertontonkan kepada umum. Walaupun datang dari latarbelakang budaya dan adat resam yang berbeza, Antje tidak kekok langsung untuk berkomunikasi dengan penari-penari Istana Budaya yang ratanya tidak mempunyai pendidikan seni tari kontemporari, sebaliknya kaya dengan pengalaman tarian Melayu tradisional serta tarian popular. Beliau adalah seorang koreografer yang banyak menggunakan bahasa tubuhnya dan begitu ekspresif.
Sebagai seorang guru, beliau begitu prihatin dengan pelajar-pelajarnya, banyak bersabar serta tidak jemu-jemu membuka jendela-jendela pemikiran baru untuk memecahkan pola pemikiran seorang koreografer yang mungkin terbatas atau tertutup kerana sebuah keadaan tempat kerja yang hanya memerlukan sesuatu yang khusus atau sebuah negara yang menyekat banyak pertumbuha kreativiti atau masyarakat yang banyak mengongkong gerak-geri ahli-ahlinya. Sayangnya tidak ramai koreografer yang berpatisipasi dalam workshop di Istana Budaya ini, koreografer luar dan persendirian pula tidak dipanggil bersama!. Mungkin juga ini adalah peluang eksklusif Istana Budaya.
Menurut Antje, keadaannya sebagai seorang koreografer bebas memberikannya peluang untuk menjadi lebih mobile dan bebas membuat pilihan untuk mengadakan penyelidikan ke negara-negara yang menarik atau berkolaborasi dengan seniman-seniman lain di dunia. Beliau sendiri telah banyak berkerja dengan ramai koreografer termasuk David Hernandez, Tony Vezich, Magpai Production Group in Hamburg, Michele Anne de Mey, Stephen Koplowitz, Felix Ruckert dan Joachim Schlomer. Mungkin mobility adalah sesuatu yang harus kepada seseorang seniman bebas persendirian. Pun begitu, Antje tetap dibantu oleh penolongnya, Olaf Reinecke yang begitu akrab di dalam proses krativitinya, manakala Ursula Teich pula bertanggungjawab di dalam urusan pengurusan, kontrak dan promosi.
Karya solonya Eigen Sinn yang banyak bermain dengan kata-kata dan gerak, seolah-olah menjadi pembuka tirainya sebagai seorang koreografer serta penari solo. Eigen Sinn diundang ke merata kota di Eropah, termasuk Amerika Selatan, Pakistan dan China. Karya solo ini juga membuka mata koreografer terkenal China, Wen Hui untuk berkolaborasi bersama di Beijing. Di Pakistan, beliau banyak berdialog dengan seniman-seniman di situ kerana ada beberapa babak dalam karyanya yang disensor oleh pihak pemerintah. Dari situ beliau mulai belajar memahami dunia Asia dan dunia Islam tanpa sebarang konfrontasi!
Mungkin Malaysia bakal menjadi destinasi seterusnya untuk beliau terus berkolaborasi dengan seniman-seniman tari dari perbagai budaya dan agama serta falsafah seni yang berbeza.

Dr.Zulkifli adalah seorang aktivis dan perunding seni budaya, aktif bersama Svarnabhumi Studio dan Arts Exchange in Asia(AXiA).

Keluar 90 Hari

Keluar 90 Hari by Roslisham Ismail is due to open to public at Australian High Commission, Jalan Yap Kuan Seng on 18 January 2007. So marilah beramai2 kita ke sana. Nak tengok apa yang bakal diutarakan oleh Ise setelah residensinya di Sydney Australia.

Sunday, December 31, 2006

Pelayaran Tukang Cerita


Perlayaran Tukang Cerita
Dr.Zulkifli Mohamad

Seorang teman menceritakan kisah seorang hamba Allah yang bertemu dengan Tukang Tilik kerana nasib yang menimpa dirinya di bumi sendiri. Selesai Tukang Tilik melihat gambar-gambar di kad tarrotnya, dia terus berkata yang hamba Allah ini tidak boleh mencari rezeki di buminya sendiri, malah menyuruhnya merantau menyeberangi lautan untuk mencari rezeki. Teman ini terus menjawab, Rasulullah juga menyuruh umatnya berhijrah untuk kebaikan. Dan begitulah juga yang dirasakan oleh teman yang seorang ini, seorang insan seni yang begitu sensitif dengan ruang lingkupnya.

Ise atau nama sebenarnya Roslisham Ismail, 34 tahun, dilahirkan di Kg.Kota, Kota Bharu, Kelantan, adalah lulusan Sarjana Muda Seni Halus dari UITM Shah Alam. Beliau adalah seorang seniman sepenuh masa dan pengasas kepada sebuah pertubuhan seni tanpa laba, Parking Projek.

Sewaktu menjejakkan kaki ke rumah-pustaka-studio Parking Projeknya di belakang Supermarket Fajar di Pandan Indah, Kuala Lumpur, beliau baru saja kembali dari residensi seninya di Gunnery Gallery, Sydney, Australia, sebuah projek residensi yang dikelolakan oleh Pesuruhjaya Tinggi Australia di Kuala Lumpur.

Sebelum Ise terpilih ke Sydney pada tahun ini, sudah ada tiga seniman Malaysia yang terpilih ke sana pada setiap tahun. Tapi ada yang berbisik mengatakan penempatan seniman di galeri tersebut agak terpencil sekali gus menyangsikan kewibawaan Ise untuk menyesuaikan diri serta menampilkan dirinya di khalayak seni di Sydney. Bagi Ise, itulah yang menjadi cabaran buatnya!

Bagi seorang seniman media baru berbaur seni pop, yang sering kelihatan begitu santai dan selamba ini, Ise bertekad untuk menampilkan diri dengan karya-karya segarnya di Sydney. Beliau yang pernah menjadi pensyarah sambilan di UiTM selama 4 tahun, banyak bertemu insan-insan seni lain yang begitu tinggi appresiasinya terhadap karya-karya Ise. Malah beliau begitu bertuah kerana bertemu seorang anak kelahiran Malaysia berbangsa tionghua yang menetap di Sydney, yang kebetulan menjadi lembaga pengarah di sebuah galeri, 4As, di mana dia mendapat peluang menghasilkan ciptaan-ciptaan barunya.

Beliau menamakan pameran solo pertamanya “Keluar 90 Hari” bersempena dengan penjelajahan seninya ke Sydney. Istilah ini juga mempunyai konotasi tersendiri di kalangan para pendahwah yang keluar dari rumahnya untuk menyucikan diri serta mencari ilmu baru. Sememangnya residensi seni ini membuka banyak jendela baru untuk beliau. Sebelum ini beliau telah menyertai beberapa program residensi seni di Ruang Rupa, Jakarta, Indonesia serta di Khoj, Delhi, India.

“Program residensi seni adalah sesuatu yang amat berguna kepada seniman, terutamanya seniman muda” ujar Ise. Beliau menambah “sepatutnya, seniman-seniman besar Malaysia, menjadi pembuka jalan kepada seniman-seniman muda untuk berkarya dan bukannya bertarung di medan yang sama di Malaysia”. Mungkin program ini masih baru di Malaysia dan tidak dinafikan juga yang ada birokrat besar seni kita yang tak mengerti istilah ini, apalagi kalau pentadbir seni kita bukannya dari kalangan orang seni atau pentadbir budaya. Program sebegini bukan hanya membuka minda anak muda kita tapi mempamerkan karya mereka ke mata dunia, sekali gus mengharumkan nama negara!.

Dalam berkesenian Ise berpendapat yang “membina jarangan adalah teknik baru yang penting”. Tak hairanlah kalau dia digelar sesetengah kelompok seniman sebagai Seniman Strategik!. Walaupun tidak menyangkal tohmahan itu, dia cepat-cepat menjawab “Seniman Media Baru harus pandai bermain dengan Media Massa sebagai bahannya, mengubah fungsi serta menungganginya menjadi sebuah nukilan seni yang jauh berbeza maknanya. Seniman harus pandai meletakkan dirinya dalam budaya popularnya atau berinteraksi dengan alam popnya”. “Kerana itulah saya tinggal di belakang pusat membeli belah yang di kelilingi pusat hiburan”!

Beliau juga telah banyak berkolaborasi dengan seniman-seniman dan galeri-galeri, seperti Paiman, Meme, Seniman Studio Svarnabhumi, Ruang Rupa Jakarta, House of Natural Fiber Yogyakarta, Galeri Maya, Galeri Pelita Hati, Yayasan Kesenian Perak, Galeri Shah Alam dan Balai Seni Negara. Bersama Nur Hanim Khairuddin beliau telah mengasaskan sebuah majalah seni visual, SENTAP, kini menjadi semakin popular, malah ke luar negara hingga ke Turkey, Jerman dan Jepun.

Karya-karyanya pula dilihat seperti menceritakan kisah perjalanannya sebagai seorang seniman, dari seorang seniman instalasi yang menyusun kerusi meja kanak-kanak sekolah ke pembongkaran kotak-kotak kertas yang berisi sampah kertas dalam karya 3M X 3M X 3M untuk penyertaannya dalam Bakat Muda Malaysia di Balai Seni Negara, beliau banyak meneroka watak, media dan fungsi barunya! Kalau di pameran Lightweight vs Heavyweight di Galeri Maya beliau menerokai karikatur manusia yang berkepala kota bersama anjingnya yang setia, di Galeri 4As di Sydney, beliau menjumpai watak alteregonya “Mmugo” yang akhirnya menjadi kawan baiknya.

Seniman yang pernah mendapat Honourable Mention dalam Philip Morris Art Award 2003 serta Special Mention dalam Bakat Muda Malaysia 2000 ini pernah mendapat liputan Seniman Muda di stesen RTM dan RSB di TV3. Beliau yang sering menjadi tarikan kepada anak muda berjiwa alternatif, kerana seninya yang santai dan mengembirakan hati, berfalsafah yang seni harus menggerakkan hati seseorang.

Ise yang menemukan karakter Wishing Tree di Sydney menegaskan yang beliau akan mengadakan pameran solonya di Australian High Commission pada awal tahun depan sebelum berkoloborasi dengan seniman Malaysia di Bangkok. Ujarnya pendek sebelum berundur “Nampaknya saya terus belayar mencari cerita baru untuk karya saya”!!!

Keluar 90 Hari

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

New Stories from the Malay World

This is part of the draft paper presented at Asian Scholarship Foundation Alumni in Bali 19-20 November, 2006

3. The Performing Arts and Islam
Kelantan in Peninsula Malaysia has also been interrogated as the home for terrorist where there are many Islamic schools operating in “Pondok Style”. Actually this kind of Islamic schools have been there for a long time, probably for more than three hundred years. They teach Islam and Al Quran reading to children and teenagers. Most of the schools are supported by the State Islamic Council but many are supported by donations from rich individuals. When BBC brought the television crews to various schools in Kelantan, Chief Minister of Kelantan, Dato’ Nik Aziz, also known as ‘Tok Guru’ or great teacher, declared that “We are not the terrorist, we teach our children to live in a peaceful life without war and that’s the basic principals of Islam. He further expressed that ‘Those involved in the bombing of the World Trade Centre and Pentagon in America are criminals and they should not be labeled as Islam or Muslim. Islam is a religion of peace and compassion”!

The PAS government in Kelantan today is the very same government that banned Wayang Kulit in 1990 when they won the election. The PAS (Party Islam SeMalaysia/ Pan Islamic Party) government banned three performing arts of Wayang Kulit, Mak Yong and Manora. They believed that these performances have some un-Islamic components like “Puja” (adulation) and women exposing their “Aurat” (forbidden body parts for public exposure). Now, the PAS government is interested in developing tourism in the state but with the new concept of “Islamic Tourism”. In 2005, the state government declared Kelantan as the “Islamic State” and Kota Bharu as Islamic City. They invited all male Muslim pop artists to perform for the launch concert, rendering Nasyid songs (Arabic influenced beat originated from the Middle Eastern countries in 1950s) and pop songs with lyrics related to love for Allah. The audience was divided into three sections - all males, all females and family.

The state has also approved the all male theatre performances like “Tok Janggut” and “Tok Kenali” in 2004 and 2005. Tok Janggut is a story about the Muslim rebel during the British and Tok Kenali, a story about the religious leader in Kelantan. In 2004, the PAS government declared that Wayang Kulit is allowed to be performed in Kelantan if puppeteers agree to stage new story that has nothing to do with Hindu epics, Ramayana and Mahabhrata. Stories about Muslim leaders from like Sayyidina Omar, Othman or Ali are most encouraged. But until now no pupperteer has taken the challenge on the new Islamic story for Wayang.

In the contemporary arts scene, few new developments happened since September 11. I have develop a contemporary dance piece entitled “19142004” for ‘LALAK”, collection of ten contemporary dance works from five Malay choreographers, staged in Kuala Lumpur City Theatre in December 2005. The piece was inspired by the mass killings in South Thailand where the Thai Military had killed more than 1000 Muslim in 2005. As Malaysian, we do not seem to do much or able to do anything to remedy the situation. We could only cry every time we watch the people got killed on television and we are just a stone throw away, separated by a small river, Sungai Golok, cutting us away from our cousins. Pattani, Yala, Satun and Narathiwat, Kelantan, Kedah, Perlis, Trengganu and Pahang used to be one the old state of Pattani and Langkasuka, but divided into Thailand and Malaysia after the Bangkok Treaty in 1909. Kelantan was under emergency state for few years from 1910 to 1914, until the killing of Tok Janggut, leader of the rebel. This short piece was a dance theatre work combined contemporary movements with silat martial arts, set on stage with a table, a chair and a jug of red syrup with two side screens showing two different video works.

“Jerejak”, a one act play written and directed by Shahrul Fitri Musa is a fresh voice in Malaysian theatre. Jerejak is named after a small island in the north of Peninsula, near Penang Island, known for the Jail Island. This one act play tells the story about two girls in the jail, Jiha, a girl about to be released from the jail and Sada, a girl who keeps trying in escaping from the jail. Sada tries to include Jiha in her games and plays, playing different characters, from Hang Tuah and Hang Jebat to the court case of Saddam Hussein. Jiha, end up killing Sada and continues her death sentence in the same jail. The play catches the attention of the press, theater makers and young students from various local universities. The usage of physical body movement and streetwise girl’s language set a different tone in this Malay drama, staged in September 2006 at the Auditorium of National Museum.

“Tamu Dari Medan Perang”(Guest from the Fields of War), another Islamic play, was staged at Stor Teater, a small black theatre at Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka (National Language Council) in May 2006, considered to be a laboratory for more experimental work. This one act play was written and directed by the well-known Malay contemporary playwright from the 1970s, Dinsman. He had disappeared from the theatre scene for more than twenty years but back with new vision, writing Islamic play. Guest from the War is about a woman from the war who confronted a king of another country to stop the war in her country.

“Laut Lebih Indah Dari Bulan” (The Sea is More Beautiful Than the Moon) by Namron was also staged at Stor Teater, just a month before Jerejak. Namron is labeled as an alternative theatre playwright and director. A graduate of National Arts Academy, Namron is married to a young contemporary dance choreographer, Junainah M.Lojong. “Laut Lebih Indah Dari Bulan” is a monologue about a typical Malay love story among Malaysian working class but this monologue surprised the audience with hypocrisy in their married relationship, Muslim man and devoted husband. Laut, the husband was arrested for killing a young child after his sexual pleasure. Indah, the name of the wife, is left alone to deal with her shock. The monologue received good audience and good reviews.

It is interesting to see this co-incidence where the four new works performed this year are looking at Islam from different angles, one is looking at our concern towards the Muslim countries like Iraq, Lebanon, Palestine, Afghanistan in the Middle East, attitudes towards Saddam Hussein, typical Muslim man’s life and his hypocrisy and our sympathy towards the killings of our Muslim cousins across the river.

In the past, we may think that Zapin and Hadrah are probably the two type of performances that are related or connected with Islam. Zapin, known for its Arabic influenced dance form through out the Malay world, mainly performed by all males, while Hadrah, a mixture of percussion, harmony singing and minimal movement also performed by all male performers. These performances are also known in the Indonesia, especially in Sumatera where Malay cultural has its connection. Sumatera also housed othet types of Islamic performances of Saman and Endang from Aceh and Padang. Both are related to the Islamic zikir (calling of Allah and the Prophet’s name) performance with vigorous hand and body gestures while sitting down on the floor.

Pekan Baru, a town in South Sumatera is the historical place where the last Sultan of Melaka died. Many many performance arts could be found here like Zapin, Joget, Mak Yong and Bangsawan theatre. My research visit to Pekan Baru was to observe the first contemporary dance fair there but found few Malay groups presenting new moves of Zapin. Tom Ibnor, a well known Indonesian choreographer from South Sumateran had developed Zapin and Hadrah dance into contemporary works in the early 1990s. His recent work in Jakarta called “Ticket to Bosnia” dealt directly with the issue of Islamic refugees from Bosnia at that time. But many Malay choreographers in the 1990s dealt with dance patterns with Islamic feel, mainly about the beauty and rhythm like the rest of Islamic arts with the arabesque design and calligraphy.

4. The New Arts of Islam
Arahmaini, a globe –trotting Indonesian performance artist with Islamic background presented her new work on Islam entitled “Stitching the Wounds” at The Jim Thomson’s Art Centre in Bangkok. The exhibition started in June and ended in September 2006 together with designing and movement workshop with the children of Ban Krua community, a Muslim community known for their weaving skill since the early start of Jim Thomson silk weaving. The community has a long history of migration since Rama I and the beginning of Bangkok. Most of them are Cham and Malay from the South of Thailand. The Thais called the Malays from the South as “Jawi”, referring to the language that they speak. Jawi is actually the name for the scripture used by the Malays in the old days, taken from the Arabic alphabet. Now, the Muslim of Ban Krua and Thailand are referred to as Thai Muslim and very few of the Muslim in Bangkok speak “Jawi”.

Arahmiani sees herself the same way as the Muslim minority in Thailand, having the issue of a mixed identity in her global travel. In her own words, she described her relation to Islam:

Arahmiani: In the last few years, particularly since the 11 September 2001 terrorist attack, I have had to come to terms with the idea that whether I like or not, I am perceived as someone belonging to a specific group of people with specific kind of cultural background. I have denoted more energy to examining and questioning my identity. Am I really like the people depicted by the international media? A woman with a heavy black veil? A woman who lacking the freedom to express herself? There seems to be a rupture between Islam’s image and the reality of Islam.

Arahmiani: There is fear and hysteria on the outside, and the reaction to that fear is violent and irrational. On the inside, there is a sense of polarization because since 911, Muslim see themselves as targeted victims. Thus, morality has become a sort of refuge, a way of asserting muslim identity and righteousness, perceived as necessary since we consider ourselves under attack.2

The concept of the project was to explore alternative images of Islam including researching the creation of images of Islam prevalent in the media since Iran’s Islamic Revolution, followed by those diffused in the aftermath of September 11, 2001, and many more images that probably inspire fear in the outside world. Even Arabic scripts have become “threatening” suggesting, suggesting terrorism and intolerance! Arabic names seem ominous these days; he or she is burdened with one possibly a suicide bomber.

Arahmiani: I have chosen two aspects of Islamic cultures that explore both conceptually and visually. The first is the Arabic alphabet, second is the special robe that Muslim women wear for praying, either in the mosque or at home. As symbols they have vastly different connotations, depending on whether one stands inside or outside Islam. I have created an installation piece consisting of ten sculpturally formed three-dimensional letters of Arabic alphabet executed as soft, stuffed cushions in different sizes and colours. The second piece is a huge colourful patchwork robe, suggesting the kind worn by women when they pray.

The children of Ban Krua, designed their own dress, chose their favourite colours, turned them into real dress that they wear during the opening of exhibition, dancing and singing their own songs and served the visitors biscuits in the shape of Arabic alphabets that they baked.

Iola Lenzi (2006) in context, content and meaning, quoted another Indonesian artist of mixed parentage of Javanese-Balinese based in Bandung. He began to focus on Muslim life and tackling his identity artistically in the years since sectarian tensions have flared in Indonesia in the wake of Suharto’s fall from power. His 2003 four minute loop single projection video Beach Time plays on the conceptual paradox of diametrically opposed perspectives and meanings according to where the audience stands culturally and religiously. The video, entitled “Beach Time” showed a fully clothed Muslim woman complete with head scarf, bathing at the beach. Viewer from a traditional Muslim society may find this image very familiar and very common to that society, but it would be shocking to the westerners. The difference in the visual impact is solely depending on the viewer’s perspectives.

In Malaysia, new approach to Islamic Arts is rather rare. In the past, few modern artists have explored the Islamic motives like the arabesque and calligraphy in the works - Sulaiman Esa, Khalil Ibrahim, Syed Ahmad Jamal and to certain extend, Yusuf Ghani. In an interview with a foreign press in United States in the 1980s, Yusuf Ghani was very serious about coming up with a national identity for Malaysian art:

Yusuf Ghani: It was a tough challenge to find the answer to my work in Malaysia. But Islamic and indigenous motifs were widely used in Malaysia. My "Protest" paintings created in America were obviously out of place. Therefore I decided to expand my work on cultural series. I felt that I could still communicate with people on how I feel about the world.

Yusuf’s art, though created in the realm of modern art, has been self-censored as a Muslim practicing in Malaysia. He himself does not see his work as Islamic art, but would agree to the idea of Muslim art. In the wake of Islam realization in the world, Yusuf and few other Muslim artists like Husin Hourmain, Shafee Ramli, Shuhaimi Fadzir, Amir Zainorin and Citi Yusouf were chosen to exhibit their works in Hague, Holland in 2007, presenting a different face of Islam.

Nafas, an exhibition started with idea and concept developed by Pat Binder and Gerhard Haupt together with the Institute for Foreign Cultural Relations (ifa). Nafas started in Berlin with the exhibition of art works by Lida Abdul (Afghanistan/USA), Ebtisam Abdul Aziz (United Arab Emirates), Vyacheslav Akhunov (Uzbekistan), Mounir Fatmi (Morocco/France), Amal Kenawy (Egypt) Nur Hanim Mohamed Khairuddin (Malaysia), Waheeda Malullah (Bahrain), Anas Al-Shaikh (Bahrain), Suha Shoman (Jordan) started since 10 November 2006 to 7 January 2007. Nafas is now on display at the ifa Gallery in Stuttgart. The exhibition will travel to several other countries including Singapore in 2008.

Nafas is a metaphor for the focus and broad outline of the project. In Arabic, Farsi, Urdu, Malay, and Indonesian, nafas is understood essentially as breath or breathing. A variation of similar origins is the Turkish nefes. The word appears in many combinations and nuances, usually with quite positive connotations. Nafas can be used in the sense of a "second wind", i.e., being able to endure difficulties, or in the sense of a refreshing breeze that soothes torment. When someone carries out specific activities especially well, for example excellent cooking, it is said that he or she has nafas-talent: a particular way, a personal style. Sometimes nafas is associated with the meaning of "freedom", for example in Sufism, a mystical current of Islam. The root of the word is nafs, which means "self" or "soul" in Arabic and which is regarded as the dynamic power breathed into a person’s body at the beginning of life.

All too often, the expression used as a conceptual tie, "the Islamic world", arouses stereotypical ideas that fail to correspond in any way with the complex reality and stand in the way of a non-prejudiced encounter with art. The phrasing in the subtitle of Nafas may seem problematical for its suggestion of a unifying view of the countries and regions with Muslim majorities, which this project aims to counteract. For even though both the "West" and the "Islamic world" are extremely heterogeneous and anything but monolithic entities, the general perception is that there is a conflict between two antagonistic blocs or civilizations bearing these labels that goes back very far in history and is fueled again and again on both sides.

In connection with the Nafas project, we use the term "Islamic world" and "Muslim world" to address and contradict the terms as they are widely understood today. Commonly accepted ideas are confronted with artworks hard to fit into the usual clichés and created by artists, Muslims or not, who locate their cultural home or essential sources of reference for artistic production in Islamic countries and regions. In this respect also, the Nafas project is conceptually linked to the online magazine "Contemporary Art from the Islamic World".

Nur Hanim Mohamed Khairuddin, the only Malaysian artist in the exhibition of "Nafas", presented her work from 2003 collection entitled “Serangga”. Hanim played with the definition of words like 'Serangga' which means insect, 'Serang' means attack, 'Rangga' means label/status and 'Rang' which means something like druming sounds. Her artist statement explained:

The ugly theatres of propaganda performed by Western media agencies enormously traumatise the followers of Islam. Islamic masses have been appended with unruly 'interpellations' indicative of a civilisational conflict and cultural ignorance: beard, turban, chador, burqa, harem, kalashnikov, jihad, mullah-primitive, dangerous, violent, enemies, beasts; orthodox, anti-feminism, sadistic, anti-modernism, terrorist, tyrant, militant. Being a Malay Muslim woman, I feel myself stuck in a dilemma. One part of me favours the modern world, sometimes "westoxifying" myself. The other side within me tries very hard to stick to the principles of Islam and my culture. My video is a personal answer towards contemporary radical political dialectics and social discourse unleashing uncertainties, dilemmas, predicaments, and dissatisfaction towards the absolute truth of the Islamic faiths. These dynamic and existential factors perturb the communities; thus generating a crisis of identity, feelings of isolation and alienation, social 'decentering', designification, deconstruction of meanings etc.

In the introduction of the video, a self-portrait slowly surfaces and gradually swarmed by 'insects' that finally compose an image of a burqa / purdah-clad feature. Music played by a collective underground band named 'Kakabara' is being performed throughout the video. A poem recited in Malay by emerging local poet Amirul Fakir entitled 'Akulah Perang' ('I am war') echoes in the background. At the very end, Hanim’s portrait re-emerges and recedes placidly. Hanim explained that our soul has to maintain all the strengths in order to 'live life long in peace with oneself through reconciliation of one's own identity in the globalization life.

According to the Koran (5:92): “O believers, wine and arrow-shuffling, /idols [taswir] and divining-arrows are an abomination, /some of Satan’s work; then avoid it.” The word taswir can refer to any sort of image. In later centuries this word and related forms, derived from the root verb sawwara, were used to refer to painting in particular; but taswir could also refer to a sculpture and more particularly an idol, and it is all but certain that, in the context of the seventh century, the original Koranic prescription applied only to pagan idols and not to all and any forms of figurative representation by artists. (Irwin: 1997, 79)

It is important to acknowledge that the guidance provided by haddits did not run all one way. Some suggest a limited tolerance of figurative imagery. Thus, though the Prophet had destroyed all the images of gods in the pre-Islamic pagan shire of the Kaaba in Mecca, he allowed a painting of the Christian Virgin with the infant Jesus to remain; and, as the Prophet’s child bride Aisha was known to have played with them, dolls were allowed for girls and were held to foster maternal instincts. The copying of trees, plants, and buildings by artists was generally held to be permissible, although some religious authorities maintained that people and other living creatures should not be shown with shadows. (Irwin: 1997, 80)

Perhaps these are the very reason why many Muslim artists all over the world now differing their artworks to Islamic Arts. One could be that they were trained in western and modern style of art making with different philosophies. But with the new realization among the Muslim communities around the world, there is a need to differentiate the Islamic Arts and Muslim Arts. What is now is the new trend that more and more artists are referring themselves from Islamic arts, especially after September 11, 2001. Christie’s latest showing too have featured Muslim artists from the Middle East with fine figure paintings in Islamic themes and calling them Muslim arts.

5. The Pop Islam
My new writing in my weekly column in arts and entertainment section in a Malay tabloid newspaper, Kosmo, in Malaysia, talked about the new trend in producing new young singers with more Islamic outlook, singing songs about love for Allah in different style of singing Nasyid song. Nasyid singing became popular in the 1970s, where many all males and all females group became popular in Malaysia and Indonesia. Now, new names like Mawi and Too Phat singing tunes of ballad, rock and rap joining hands with the modern Nasyid groups that already popular like Raihan and Rabbani. Raihan, Rabbani and Mawi are already crossing over to Indonesia to find their market. At the same time, Rock groups like Radja and Gigi are already popular in Malaysia.

Pop Islam as I recently coined in Malaysia is becoming trendy term and at the same time I found out that a writer in Iran has start talking about Pop Islam too, but referring to the current practice of the President of Iran. Perhaps, we in Malaysia could refer to him as similar move taken by the Chief Minister of Kelantan, Dato’ Nik Aziz

Amir Zainorin, a Malaysian artist living in Copenhagen, studied at Copenhagen Media School, Denmark, University of Missouri, Kansas City and University of Central Arkansas, USA, did his apprenticeship with Malaysian pop artist, Ahmad Azhari. In 2001 he did a performance installation entitled 'Art, Politics and Power' at the National Art Gallery, Kuala Lumpur. The concept behind the installation was about the relationship between art, politic and power.

Amir: The arts can be seen as an arena where emotional incompatibilities, social conflicts, and questions of status between people collide more intensely than they would in ordinary communication. Under the influence of economic globalisation, the decisions made by the relevant forces would affect cultural matters worldwide. The flags are a symbol of conquest for example when mankind went to the moon or the Mount Everest, and this is derived from our desire to show power whether be it of conquering new physical territory or epistemological space. 99 names of God (named Allah in the Quran) printed on 99 flags are the characteristic of God, which is believed when practiced and embraced can lead to one spiritual power and closeness to God. The rest of the flags are paper cuttings taken from newspapers, magazines and the internet to remind us of the strong influence of the mass media that somehow control or shape our mind and leads the course of our everyday life.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

Islamic Art-Pop Islam in Bali

Assalamualaikum

Writing an article "New Stories from the Malay World: Repositioning Islam" has been great, especially when getting all the supports from friends from all over the world. I would like to thank Nur Hanim Khauruddin in Ipoh, Amir Zinorin in Copenhagen and Citi Youssof in London, not to forget Eric from Jim Thompson Bangkok, Arahmaini in Indonesia, Rohani Youssof, Yusof Ghani, Shahrul Fitri and Azahan Rani in Kuala Lumpur. However, this research is still a very early stage, esp for my writing. Check out
http://universes-in universe.org/eng/islamic_world/articles/2006/news_tips/nafas_stuttgart

www.citiart.co.uk

Wassalam.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Persoalan Pop Islam

PERSOALAN POP ISLAM

Dunia Islam menjadi semakin penting di dunia barat.
Walaupun pada mulanya Islam dikecam hebat setelah
peristiwa 911 di Amerika Syarikat dan pengeboman di
Bali, Indonesia, kini barat semakin ingin mahu
mengerti tentang Islam dan umatnya hinggakan
pelajar-pelajar universiti di Amerika Syarikat
diajukan untuk belajar mengetahui isi Al-Quran. Queen
Elizabeth II di Britain juga dikhabarkan telah
menyediakan surau kecil di kawasan istananya untuk
kemudahan para pekerja islam. Mungkin inilah suatu
permulaan
Tapi bagaimanakah pula dengan kita sendiri di
Malaysia? Apakah umat kita hanya menjadi warak,
bertudung dan berkopiah serta makan buah korma di
bulan Ramadhan? Sejauh manakah penghayatan kita kepada
islam? Apakah Islam Hadari yang dilancarkan Perdana
Menteri Abdullah Badawi hanyalah sekadar retorik untuk
dipertontonkan kepada kuasa-kuasa barat?, atau sebagai
konsep untuk memancing undi pengikut Islam konservatif
?, atau sebagai jentera mempertemukan umat kita yang
terpisah-pisah?.
Pendekata opulariti?semakin menjadi kunci kata
penting dalam dunia global ini. Populariti bukan hanya
penting untuk memenangi juara nyanyian atau anugerah
artis popular, tetapi juga menjadi aset penting untuk
parti politik dan dunia perniagaan!
Malah Parti Islam SeMalaysia(PAS) juga pernah
berkolaborasi dengan Mawi untuk pelancaran Kota Bharu
Kota Islam setahun yang lalu, dimana 40,000 orang
memenuhi Stadium Muhamad IV. Kolaborasi pop dan
politik diteruskan oleh Pemuda Umno Terengganu dengan
mengundang Mawi ke Kuala terengganu beberapa bulan
kemudiannya. Pun begitu, pihak Maestro dan Astro
menafikan yang mereka berkolaborasi dengan parti
politik, sebaliknya hanya memenuhi undangan dan
permintaan.bagi dunia barat untuk mulai mengiktiraf
dunia islam.
Pun begitu, masih ramai penganut-penganut islam dari
timur tengah yang gagal untuk melancung dan menyambung
pelajaran mereka ke Amerika Syarikat. Maka bernasib
baiklah kita di Malaysia dan Asia Tenggara kerana
dikunjungi para pelancung timur tengah yang melimpah
ruah. Kita juga semakin menjadi tumpuan para pelajar
Islam dari timur tengah, sekali gus menjadi pusat
pendidikan dunia islam!

Persoalannya, apakah umat Melayu di Malaysia sudah
menjadi semakin Islamik? Apakah kecenderungan
anak-anak muda ke arah mendengar muzik-muzik berbentuk
islam boleh dijadikan sebagai pengukur?
Lagu-lagu berirama nasyid menjadi popular di
pertengahan tahun 1990an dengan kehadiran kumpulan
Raihan pada tahun 1996 dan Rabbani pada tahun 1997.
Pun begitu, banyak juga kumpulan-kumpulan nasyid lain
yang cuba mengikut langkah mereka seperti kumpulan
Hijjaz, Brothers, Inteam, Mirwani, Firdaus dan banyak
lagi. Tapi kumpulan Raihanlah yang berjaya menembusi
pasaran Indonesia dan dunia islam di Eropah.

Sebenarnya dunia muzik kita juga pernah diperkenalkan
dengan nyanyian nasyid yang mendadak diakhir tahun
1970an dan awal 1980an, tetapi kesemua kumpulan
terdiri dari kumpulan wanita - Al Jawaher, Al Mizan,
Orkes Sinar Murni dan El Suraya. Terakhir lagu-lagu
mereka dikompilasikan oleh syarikat Universal yang
mungkin akan mengingatkan kita kepada lagu-lagu mereka
atau sekali gus menjadi sesuatu yang baru kepada
generasi baru. Antara lagu-lagu terkenal mereka
termasuklah Kembara Di Tanah Gersang dan Perjalanan
oleh Al Jawaher, Tangan Ku Hulur Maaf Ku Pohon dan
Junjungan Mulia oleh Al Mizan, Selimut Putih dan
Hikmar Fajar oleh Orkes Sinar Murni, serta Ikarat
Tuhan dan Mohon Undangan oleh El Suraya.

Tapi yang pasti, irama muzik islam juga sudah
berkembang, dari hanya berirama nasyid, lagu-lagu
ketuhanan ini sudah mula pandai berkolaborasi dengan
irama-irama pop yang lain. Telah lahir juga penyanyi
solo seperti Yassin, Waheeda dan Bienda yang
mendendangkan lagu-lagu berirama padang pasir yang
dipengaruhi irama Arab baru yang dipengaruhi lagu pop
Perancis. Pun begitu ada juga kumpulan muzik pop lain
yang berkolaborasi melahirkan lagu-lagu ketuhanan
seperti lagu Alhamdulillah yang dibawakan oleh
kumpulan hip-hop terkenal Too Phat yang menggunakan
suara pelakon muda terkenal Indonesia, Dian Sastro.

Sebelum ini juga ada juga album-album himpunan
lagu-lagu ketuhanan dari Mawi (Qasidah, Berzamji dan
Berlagu), Sharifah Aini dan Ahmadi Hassan. Tetapi apa
yang lebih berbeza adalah lagu-lagu ketuhanan berirama
rock yang dibawakan oleh kumpulan rock alternatif
Indonesia ?Radja dan Gigi yang sudah terkenal di
Malaysia dengan lagu-lagu cinta mereka. Lagu Lailatul
Qadar yang dinyanyikan oleh kumpulan Radja seperti
membuka era baru di dalam nyanyian ketuhanan.
Apakah lagu-lagu ketuhanan berirama nasyid akan terus
mendominasi dunia pop di Malaysia atau kita bakal
diserang dengan lagu-lagu ketuhanan berirama jazz,
hip-hop, rap, rock dan sebagainya. Apakah
penyanyi-penyayi kita akan bertukar imej untuk berdiri
tegak di dalam pasaran dunia islam.

Adakah Mawi akan kekal mendengar nasihat Tok Guru Nik
Aziz untuk menjadi role model kaum belia islam
Malaysia yang bersih dari dadah, arak dan skandal sex
dan mendendangkan irama-irama ketuhanan? Adakah Siti
Nurhaliza juga akan terus membawa imej bersih wanita
Melayu islam untuk menguasai pasaran hiburan Melayu
Islam di nusantara?

Persoalan seterusnya, apakah dunia hiburan kita akan
juga berusaha ke arah perniagaan halal?, apalagi
apabila kita di Malaysia semakin menempatkan diri kita
sebagai alal Hub?Pusat Halal Sedunia) serta menjadi
penghubung kepada perniagaan antara dunia Timur
Tengah dengan Asia Timur.
Sesungguhnya, kita sedang menyaksikan pertemuan dunia
popular dengan dunia Islam, dan kedua-duanya
memerlukan populariti dan saling memerlukan untuk
mempengaruhi umat dunia!

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Dunia Fesyen Malaysia

Cari Paksi Fesyen Dunia
Dr.Zulkifli Mohamad

Dunia fesyen tidak boleh terlepas dari penampilan bintang-bintang glamour dan selebriti terkenal. Di Hollywood sendiri, para pereka fesyen terkenal dunia berebut-rebut untuk menghiasi tubuh glamour bintang-bintang kerana merekalah yang mampu mempamerkan keindahan rekaan dan kehandalan pereka ke mata dunia sewaktu acara anugerah gah seperti Oscar, Grammy, Emmy, Tony dan MTV berlangsung.

Begitu juga dengan kita di kota gemilang Kuala Lumpur yang bakal menampilkan Malam Seribu Bintang serta Malam Indah Selebriti di Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week. KL Fashion Week yang bakal berlangsung di kota kesayangan kita di Malaysian Tourism Centre di Jalan Ampang pada 12-15 November ini akan dikunjungi para media fesyen dunia termasuk CNN serta para peniaga dunia fesyen antarabangsa.

Mungkin inilah masanya untuk kita mempamerkan keindahan dan keunikan rekaan-rekaan para pereka kita, sekaligus, menampilkan model-model dan bintang-bintang jelita kita ke mata dunia. Ditambah lagi dengan keindahan budaya, kraftangan, alam semulajadi dan mentari kita yang menyinar sepanjang tahun, bagaikan sebuah musim panas yang panjang!

Tahniah kepada Tourism Malaysia, Pempena, MODA dan penganjur lainnya kerana mengembelingkan tenaga bersama untuk menampilkan acara dunia yang gilang gemilang ini. Kini kita sudah mulai bergandingan dengan kota-kota Asia lain seperti Bangkok, Singapura, Bali, Jakarta, Hong Kong dan Tokyo. Sekaligus cuba menempatkan diri kita ke dalam liga Fashion Week dunia seperti di London, New York, Paris dan Milan.

Mungkin boleh dikatakan yang inilah julungkalinya Kuala Lumpur mengadakan KLFashion Week, tetapi ada penggiat fesyen di Malaysia yang bakal menyangkal, dan mengatakan Kuala Lumpur pernah mengadakan Fashion Week di tahun 1998 yang dianjurkan oleh Majalah Rias. Tapi mungkin dunia fesyen kita tidaklah sehebat sekarang ini hinggakan acara tersebut terus terkubur. Empat tahun yang lalu MIFA(Malaysian International Fashion Award) mengorak langkah dan mengadakan fashion week dengan kerjasama Mercedez Benz, membawa pereka-pereka Asia masuk ke Kuala Lumpur.

Bali Fashion Week misalnya cuma diusahakan oleh seorang pereka fesyen Indonesia yang menetap di Hong Kong, Ika Mardiana, yang prihatin terhadap industri pakaian di Indonesia setelah krisis ekonomi dan politik di tahun 1998. Usaha Ika di Bali telah membuka jalan untuk mengadakan Jakarta Fashion Week beberapa tahun kemudian.

Mungkin juga Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week akan menjadi pencetus industri pakaian dan kraftangan negara sekaligus menjadi fashion week yang teguh dan terkenal dengan kegemilangannya. Ini tidak mungkin tidak boleh berlaku kalau semua pihak berkerjasama, terutamanya pihak MODA (Malaysian Official Designers’ Association).


MODA ditubuhkan sejak tahun 1990 sememangnya bertujuan mengembangkan industri fesyen dengan mengadakan keperluan industri dan menyediakan platfom kepada pereka fesyen tempatan. Tetapi mungkin perjalanannya tidak seindah yang diharapkan, apalagi apabila ada perebutan kepimpinan dan kuasa di antara pereka fesyen, sehingga ramai yang mengambil keputusan untuk berjuang sendiri.

Sebenarnya, banyak perkara yang perlu diusahakan oleh pihak MODA, tetapi ianya memerlukan kerjasama dari semua pihak, apalagi apabila industri fesyen kita masih berada diperingkat infan, yang baru mahu berpucuk. Untuk melahirkan sebuah industri yang mantap dan disegani di dunia, terutamanya di rantau ini, kita perlu mengadakan anugerah dan biasiswa, sekolah fesyen bertaraf dunia, skim pelaburan dalam fesyen untuk perniagaan fesyen, informasi tentang industri, rekaan, pemasaran, mengkaji gaya dan trend pasaran, gelagat pembeli, pusat pencarian kerja dalam fesyen industri, fesyen district, asosiasi dengan pengeluar tekstil, asosiasi dengan penenun, pusat sumber untuk semua yang terlibat dalam industri, serta kemudahan cukai pendapatan, seterusnya mengadakan forum antara yang terlibat di dalam industri, wakil perantara, mempromosikan rekaan ke luar negara, pertukaran antara bangsa, pembangunan usahawan serta suatu sistem praktis yang disahkan oleh industri.

MODA seharusnya memungkinkan jenama Malaysia menembusi pasaran dunia sekaligus berjaya menkonseptualisasikan trend pasaran dunia kepada para pereka fesyen, pengeluar tekstil, artisan industri kraf serta peruncit tempatan. Mungkin saja dengan kehadiran tenaga baru, Gillian Hung, yang diwar-warkan sebagai Guru Fesyen yang lama bertapak di New York, MODA bakal mengembangkan sayapnya dan terbang lebih jauh. Persoalannya apakah Gillian Hung mampu menyatukan pereka-pereka fesyen yang sudah bertapak dipersada antarabangsa? Atau MODA hanyalah sebuah persatuan untuk menyatukan dan memberi peluang kepada pereka-pereka muda yang baru ingin berkembang?

Industri pakaian dan fesyen dikatakan mempunyai nilai total ekspot tekstil dan pakaian berjumlah RM13,464.5 juta pada tahun 1998, iaitu 4.7% dari total ekspot dan ketiga terbesar dalam pertukaran wang, selepas industri elektronik dan kelapa sawit. Tekstil dan pakaian buatan Malaysia juga terkenal di dunia kerana kualiti dan ketahanannya. Pada tahun 2001 total ekspot meningkat kepada US$2.43 bilion dengan pengimpot utama dari USA, UK, Hong Kong, Singapura dan Japan.

Jenama-jenama terkenal dunia juga mengambil kesempatan untuk pengeluaran di Malaysia. Antara yang mempunyai kilang di Malaysia termasuklah Adidas, Champion, Calvin Klein, Nike, Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Gucci dan banyak lagi. Produser tempatan pula Anakku, Padini, PDI, Seed, Donna Knits, John Masters dan British India. Banyak pengeluar tekstil dan pakaian Malaysia yang sudah menembusi pasaran dunia dan terdapat banyak usaha juga sedang di jalankan untuk menarik pelaburan ke Malaysia.

Persoalan seterusnya, apakah industri fesyen kita berkerjasama dengan industri pengeluaran dan perdagangan antarabangsa yang dikelolakan oleh MATRADE dan Kementerian Perdagangan dan Perindustrian, industri budaya serta industri pelancongan? MATRADE dikatakan mendaftarkan lebih daripada 1500 pengilang dan pengeluar tekstil dan pakaian di Malaysia.

Perancis, sebuah negara yang mencatat nilai tertinggi di dalam pelancongan dunia serta dunia fesyen yang sudah lama bertapak mencatatkan pasaran berjumlah antara Euro6.6 bilion dan Euro4.410 bilion untuk pakaian siap lelaki dan kanak2 dalam tahun 2005. Ini dianggap pasaran yang sangat kuat persaingannya dan di dominasi jenama-jenama terkenal dan banyak syarikat Perancis kini memberikan tumpuan kepada pengeluaran yang berkos lebih rendah dengan mendapatkan bekalan-bekalan luar disebabkan harga pekerja. Mungkin inilah peluang kita untuk menembusi pasaran walaupun persaingannya amat sengit, terutama daripada Negara Asia seperti China dan India.

Pun begitu, kita masih mampu bertanding jika kita mempunyai suatu niche dan identiti yang tersendiri di dalam pasaran dunia. Mungkin inilah waktunya untuk kita menggali dan mencari keistimewaan kita sendiri di pasaran antarabangsa.

Kita juga mempunyai kelebihan lain dalam daya saing, seperti keupayaan mencetuskan pusat tumpuan dunia Islam moden di Asia. Persoalannya apakah kita mampu menghasilkan sebuah lagi acara gah dunia setanding dengan Fesyen Week yang sudah menjadi seperti cendawan tumbuh di merata kota gemilang dunia?